Bass Boat Accessories for Minor Travel Emergencies
When I bought my first bass boat in November of 1996, I stuffed it full of tackle, added a throw cushion and a rope, and figured I was good to go. I might’ve thrown in a few basic tools, but as a first-time boat owner and decidedly non-mechanical individual, I really didn’t know what I needed. Since that time I’ve owned a total of six fiberglass boats (number seven has been ordered) and I’ve learned the hard way that just when you think you know everything you’ll need you realize there’s at least one more thing you didn’t consider.
Those of you who tow long distances need not only to find a place that’s safe to park and charge your batteries, but also the ability to get there and stay functional. Nothing sucks worse than arriving on a hot bite and being stuck on the bank. You may not be able to fix a blown powerhead or a broken trailer axle, but there are lots more simple repairs that can save the day if you have the right tools and parts.
It’s one reason (besides the obvious towing and stopping power) that most of us tow with full-sized trucks or SUVs: we need the space to carry the stuff. Here are some things I always take, whether I’m driving 800 miles or just to my home waters.
Obviously you should never leave home without fully-inflated tires and tight lug nuts on your trailer, but potholes, a stray nail and other unpredictable factors can lead to a flat. Do you have a properly-sized and inflated spare? Do you have the proper tools to change it out? Have you actually tried? When I bought my second used boat in 1999, the seller sent his wife to Wal Mart while I test drove the boat to get a properly-sized thin-walled socket. I never would have known that a regular socket wouldn’t fit and could have been stranded on the ride home from Pickwick. Keep a breaker bar with you so that you can easily loosen tight lug nuts. I also carry a cigarette lighter powered tire inflator and a patch kit.
What about a jack? Some bottle jacks or scissor jacks are tough to get under a trailer frame. If you have the space, get a quality floor jack that’ll make things easier and safer on uneven surfaces. If you have a dual-axle trailer you can use a curb to prop up the tire in front of or behind the back one. You can use a block of wood or the commercially-available Trailer Aid to do the same thing.
And of course carry a pair of chocks to lock everything in place. They can come in handy not only for changing a tire, but also if you need to leave the boat someplace unattached to your vehicle.
Speaking of leaving your boat unattached, either to get repaired or at a house/hotel while you go out to dinner, invest in some sort of trailer coupler lock. It pains me to see boats sitting on trailers in parking lots without such a lock. It would take less than a minute for someone else to back up to your boat and drive away with it. I’m surprised that it doesn’t happen more often.
For the same reason, I always keep my boat cover with me and I try to cover the boat any time it will be parked somewhere, whether attached or unattached to my vehicle. It simply makes it a less attractive target of theft. My boat also has a built-in alarm system. If yours does not, consider adding one, or adding something like a Loc-R-Bar.
I’ve carried a spare trolling motor for well over 20 years. Get one. It doesn’t have to be new – it can be a refurb or a beat-up secondhand model, just something to get your through the day if your main one craps out. Get a spare trolling motor prop and prop nut (with hardware, too). If your particular model is known for having a part go bad (fuse, steering cable, etc.), buy an extra.
For the same reason, get a spare propeller for your engine with a replacement hub and replacement hardware. We all hit things eventually, and sometimes the damage can be ugly. With a spare prop, even a secondhand one (be sure it’s not too beaten up, because the vibrations could mess up your outboard), you can at least limp back to the ramp. I recommend carrying one of those floating yellow prop wrenches in the boat for quick changes, and a more serious torque wrench in your vehicle to later make sure things are appropriately tightened.
Other things to consider:
Spare Drain Plug – many new boats today come with a fitted plug, but these are traditionally easy to misplace.
Duct tape – for things that move, but aren’t supposed to
WD40 or other Lubricant – for things that are supposed to move, but don’t
Boat US Membership – for about a hundred bucks a year, you can get on-the-water towing and on-the-road services for both vehicle AND boat/trailer (not always easy to find). It has saved me thousands.
None of these things are sexy. Upon purchasing them, none will give you the same thrill as a new flipping stick or glide bait. But the first time one saves your trip – especially if you’re hundreds of miles from home and every nearby marine parts supplier and auto repair shop is closed – you’ll be thankful that you have them.