Making the Most of Less than 72 Hours at Lake Atitlán Guatemala
As maximizers we couldn’t just go home after our trip Casa Vieja Lodge, so after visiting Antigua in 2024, this year we hit Lake Atitlán, a body of water in a massive volcanic crater, the third largest freshwater lake and the deepest lake in Central America. It’s known for its Mayan villages and volcanoes. We are told there are largemouth bass in the lake but don’t get any ideas -- Carl and Pete are already in cahoots to put up their own fishing lodge.
It's definitely worth the trip, with a ton of things to do and see, from coffee tours, hiking, kayaking, paddle boarding, shopping eating or just taking in the absolute beauty of the scenery. With only two plus days to explore, here is how we got there, where we stayed, what we visited, how we got around and what we ate.
Arrangements and Travel
The Casa Vieja office went over and above in helping us set up transfers from the lodge to Lake Atitlán, to our hotel, and later for our trip to the airport.
The staff at Casa contacted Laguna Lodge, found out check-in time and had the transfer van pick us up at 11:30am. We arrived at the San Lucas Tolimán marina just over two and a half hours later and had a private boat to the Laguna Lodge, just in time for check-in. Not only is the staff exceptional and accommodating while you are at the lodge, but they really strive to perfect your entire travel excursion even if it continues beyond the ocean.
What a way to travel: Our boat driver Santiago took us right up to the private dock at the Laguna Lodge, where bellhops came to carry our bags up the stairs to the lobby and then to our room. We checked in and to our surprise are rooms were upgraded. From the website pictures the rooms we originally booked were beautiful, but the rooms we were offered were spectacular. The views of the volcano alone made this lodge hard to beat.
Once we got the lay of the land we asked how and where to go to dinner. Even though the lodge has a restaurant we decided to go out and explore. We chose a restaurant in the nearby town of Santa Cruz la Laguna, after Nico waved down the crowded public boat (kind of like hailing down a taxi in NYC), we were off with Pete riding on the top of the boat, the only spot left for him. This shit would never happen in the US. We were off to an early Guatemalan dinner, at Holy Tortillas. We made note that boat taxis shut down around 6 pm. We rode back, with Pete inside the boat, and we decided to have a drink at the lodge’s bar and then get an early night’s sleep. My eyes were shut by 6:58 pm.
Breakfast, included in our stay, was fantastic, even if it didn’t include BACON. We stayed at a vegetarian luxury nature lodge and we all agreed we do it again. After breakfast we awaited the arrival of our boat driver, Santiago. We had hired him to take us around on his private boat for the day to four different villages. He found guides in a few of the towns to show us places we would never have known about without his expertise.
San Marcos La Laguna
First stop, San Marcos La Laguna, a village on Lake Atitlán known for being a spiritual retreat and beautiful spot on the lake.
We were told to do a little shopping, perhaps some yoga (the boys weren’t going for any of that) and walk to see the outside amphitheater and outdoor market. Unfortunately we didn’t have a day to hike the Indian Nose to look out and watch the sunrise. Besides, it would’ve required getting up earlier, and really exerting ourself. This was supposed to be the lazy part of our trip. Pete and I decided we would train and do this next trip.
San Juan La Laguna
San Juan La Laguna is a colorful town that has a famous umbrella street called La Calle de las Sombrillas.
Santiago had a young tour guide meet us at the dock and take us around. She spoke little English so thankfully Pete was able to dig deep and use that mostly-forgotten high school Spanish class and Carl got his money’s worth from the last year of his online training to help me and Lisa understand all about how the fabric for all the beautiful crafts were made. The fabrics were stunning and I wish I could have purchased them all but couldn’t choose one over the others -- I wanted them all.
On our walk to the next hidden gem we noticed a swarm of bees and then we were introduced to our 12 year old bee guide. He goes to school a few days a week, learns English and then explains the honey making process to gringos like us. His English was remarkable and we learned a ton about honey and everything bees’ products can make: wine, lotion, lip balm and of course honey and it truly was fascinating. We made sure to check out the different types of bees and no one was stung. These honey bees don’t sting unless provoked. We made sure Pete and Carl had their hands in their pockets.
Our young tour guide then took us for a lesson about chocolate production: from sorting to roasting, removing husks, grinding, molding, solidifying and of course taste testing. We were told Guatemala is known as the birthplace of chocolate because the Mayans, who believed chocolate was a “good of the gods” created the first chocolate bar there. I wasn’t thrilled by the chocolate liquors but the lotions smelled great.
We remain thankful for Santiago because otherwise we would have missed out on so much history and tradition. Next it was time to find the umbrellas. A slight uphill walk and a glance up towards the sky and there they were, strings of suspended solid colored umbrellas. They were just mesmerizing. As we continued to walk we found more streets with other hanging hats and objects -- it just made things seem happy and photogenic.
Again, no trip to San Marcos to see the sunset. I do promise that we’ll train and do it on the next trip.
San Pedro La Laguna
Our next town was San Pedro La Laguna, known for its Spanish language schools, nightlife, and agricultural products like corn, beans, coffee and avocado. Santiago, yet again, found us guides to take us by tuk tuk up the steep streets to photo ops. They were mostly what I normally would call a tourist trap but we had a blast taking pictures on swings, with birds, butterflies, nosing up to a mountain, and standing in a massive green hand. If we didn’t actually take a picture with it you’d never believe they have a giant largemouth bass that looks over the lake.
Our tuk tuk ride down the mountain was over and it was time for a late lunch, We ate at Sababa Restaurante, which was highly rated, had huge portions, great food with a lake side view.
What a great day. We learned so much, saw amazing sites and really enjoyed each other’s company. Santiago brought us back to Laguna Lodge for some relaxation and a night cap and a drink.
The next day, we slept in. Well, Pete did. I took in the sunrise from bed through the open doors, I really could wake up to this scenery every day. We all met for breakfast and then decided to hail a boat taxi and take on the town of Panajachel.
Santiago
Santiago sits on a bay between two volcanoes. It’s the largest city on Lake Atitlán and was originally known as Tz’ikin Jaay, which means “house of birds.”
This was our last stop and once dropped off at the dock we saw what I thought was the town setting up for an event but that is just how the town is always dressed. There was a nice park and the we wandered up the hill all while checking out the shops and vendors. More beautiful fabrics and men and women enhancing items with embroidery.
There were so many things to do: volcano treks, weaving workshops (next time Pete and Carl) but our guide Santiago needed to get us back across the lake in the light as the waves picked up and it was quite a ride to end a terrific day.
Panajachel
Panajachel was one of Central America’s main hippie hotspots in the 60s and 70s. It is one of the largest and most developed towns on Lake Atitlan.
Upon hitting the dock we were off running, well slowly walking, trying to get up the hill to flat land. I think we all need to get back at the gym, LOL. We had no agenda, so we walked to the center of town, walked down the street one way which took us to shops and the private marina, then back up the street to more shops and the market street, Calle Santander, where they sold fresh food.
NOTE: when taking pictures make sure you ask the lady if it is ok, Hanna got the evil eye, and she wasn’t even the subject of the picture.
ANOTHER NOTE: If you are shopping for something, make sure you check all shops as so many of them have the same items but the prices largely vary.
After many trips to Guatemala I finally purchased a Gallo beer shirt, so I was a happy camper. Lisa and I were looking for shops that had something different, not the same t-shirts, shorts and beaded necklaces that all the shops had. We eventually found it, a shop that made backpacks, purses and large duffels out of leather and old Guatemalan coffee sacks. I should have just purchased one, but I already had too much luggage. That means I might just have to return.
We had seen the last t-shirt shop and Pete wanted to be like “a Parisian in Guatemala” -- sit in an open café, eat, drink and people watch, so that is what we did. It was really nice to just sit, with no agenda and just enjoy everyone’s company and take in the environment.
We headed back to the dock to catch a boat back to the Laguna Lodge to swim (which ended up being a cold plunge) then sit out, enjoy the scenery and have a few cocktails. We ordered pizza and papas fritas with ketchup for dinner and sat around what looked like an ancient Mayan table until it was time to go to bed.
Heading Home
After an early alarm, we took the lodge-provided boat back to Panajachel where we met our van driver, set up by Casa Vieja Lodge, who transferred us to the Guatemala City airport a little more than 3 hours away. We went further up into the mountains, through small villages, then to the newly paved highway which took us down to the big city with worse traffic than the Washington DC metro area!
We arrived at the airport, enjoyed the lounge for a short bit and finally parted ways with two of the greatest travel partners, Carl and Lisa Vicars. Don’t worry, we see them in 5 weeks in Panama. They just can’t escape us.
There are plenty of itineraries to choose from, but I liked the fact that we basically improvised ours. What I liked about our accommodations is that we were secluded. Perhaps next time we will stay in one of the other towns and feel like we are one of the natives.
I have in my head that I want to challenge myself and climb Indian Nose and get to the lookout point to watch the sunrise. I guess we’ll have to return. If you’d like to join us, or go on your own, shoot me an email and I can provide additional details and help you get it set up.
