Classing Up the Choupique
When I was a tournament angler, I was not a fan of the prehistoric bowfin – they often eat the same lures as bass, strike hard, and when they first flash you assume you’ve got your kicker on the line. Once you realize that it’s a “trash fish,” though, you’re left with a mangled lure and the task of getting the slimy toothy critter back in the water.
What I have always liked about bowfin, however, is their plethora of regional names. I enjoy stories about how the “Patagonian Toothfish” became the “Chilean Sea Bass,” and no fish seemed to have more nicknames than old amia calva. In addition to “Bowfin,” I’ve heard them called:
Mudfish
Dogfish
Grinnel
Grindle
Per some other sites, I’ve learned they’re also sometimes called:
Cottonfish
Swamp Bass
Swamp Trout
Posisson Castor
Speckled Cat
Beaver Fish
Cypress Trout
Mud Pike
Lawyer
I was discussing this loudly in 2001 at a crawfish boil hosted by Dennis Tietje at Toledo Bend, when from across the room the late Ken Cook shouted out what sounded like, “Shoe Pick.”
I had fished with Cook four years earlier at Lake Ferguson in Mississippi, but I’m pretty sure he had no recollection of that day or of me more generally.
“Excuse me?” I asked.
“Shoe Pick,” he said again.
I must have looked dumbfounded, because he quickly followed with, “It’s what people here in Louisiana call bowfin.” Indeed, I later found out, it was not the phonetic spelling that I had inferred, but rather the French-derived “Choupique.” I now think of that story, and of Ken (with whom we vacationed in Escanaba, Michigan in 2013) every time I catch a grinnel. Fortunately, we don’t seem to have them in my home waters of the Potomac, or at least I’ve never heard of one being caught here. Unfortunately, they are like finned rats on many of the other rivers in Virginia – the James, Chickahominy, Mattaponi, Pamunkey and Rappahannock, among others.
I always assumed that choupique had no value as food for people. I’m sure that the meat is tough and gamy, and I’m unlikely to take seriously any indication to the contrary from my Louisiana friends, because most of them will eat anything. Nevertheless, if you absolutely must try them there are plenty of YouTube instructionals on how to clean and cook them.
Not surprisingly, there’s also a company called “Choupique Accordions” because the only thing our Cajun friends like better than wild-caught dinner is their music. Naturally they’re affiliated with the Baton Rouge-based Choupique Band.