Is it Safe to Travel to Guatemala During the COVID-19 Pandemic?
It is our distinct hope that the pandemic that rocked the world at this time last year is on its last legs, but unfortunately we think it’ll be a while until we can get back to “normal.” COVID has changed our lives, but it has not shut us down. Since last March, we’ve traveled to Alaska and Maine, which required negative tests to enter, and Mexico and South Carolina, which did not. Once again, we’re not going to tell you what you should or should not do – rather, the purpose of this column is to explain our experiences in plain language and let you digest what they mean for you.
As our trip to Guatemala approached, several family members urged us to postpone the trip, but in the end we decided that our health and risk tolerance weighed in favor of going ahead as planned. Guatemala has required a recent negative COVID test to enter for several months, but only recently did the CDC require one for reentry into the United States. That meant getting our brains swabbed twice, but 10 seconds of discomfort versus 40-plus sailfish seemed like a fair trade.
Through our general practitioner, we’ve found a lab that will (with doctor’s orders) test us and have insurance cover it. They charged us $45 apiece to guarantee results within 24 hours, which was necessary because we got tested on a Monday morning in order to leave Tuesday at 6pm. There was some confusion over whether Guatemala required the test to be within 72 or 96 hours, but either way we needed the rush result. It turned out to be extra-important because Hanna’s first test came back inconclusive so she had to go back Tuesday morning for another round of swabbing. She finally got the desired result back at 1 o’clock.
We headed to a semi-deserted Dulles Airport that afternoon with test results in hand. United Airlines confirmed them and we were free to go. Again, no matter where you’re headed, make sure that that the test result indicate the proper type of test. Our friends Lee and Emily Byrd got the right test in Alabama for their flight out of Atlanta, but the wording wasn’t clear and it took some discussion with Delta (who consulted with the Guatemalan government) to get approval to fly. They briefly thought they might have to rush out and get another test.
Once we were on the plane, it was only half-full, so we kept our distance from other passengers. United gave us antiseptic wipes to clean our area and no one resisted wearing a mask. Four hours later we were on the ground in Guatemala City, where the airport had numerous signs expressing the need for caution and the requirement that people wear masks. Before heading to baggage claim and customs, we waited in a short line to once again show our results to medical staff. The immigration agent checked them again.
By the time we got through customs, our single checked bag was waiting for us at the carousel. We made the short walk through the doors and headed outside, where a masked Casa Vieja driver waited patiently for us. We were the only two passengers in their spacious Mercedes Sprinter van, so we spread out for the late night ride to the lodge. [Note: One advantage of arriving in the evening is a shorter-than-usual ride to the lodge]
Once onsite, we could sense that people were careful, but the usual routine was not significantly upended. There were, however, minor changes. Last year, breakfast was held in a closed “restaurant” but this time around we gathered outside for the morning meal — it never got much below 70 degrees, so it was perfectly comfortable. Then we got back on the van (masked) for the ride to the marina. All employees wore masks at all times. The lodge was not full, so it was possible to spread out at the pool. at the bar, and while eating. The strict attention to hygiene and impeccable cleaning processes remained in effect, and hand sanitizer was available at multiple stations.
Two nights before our departure, a lab technician came to the lodge and we were invited to step away from the pool for five minutes to get tested again. It was quick and relatively painless, and the official results were back remarkably quickly, delivered poolside. We did not miss a minute of fishing or a single cocktail to get it done, and Casa Vieja took care of the charge. Not all lodges do that, and some require you to pay in cash, so inquire in advance.
What would have happened if we’d tested positive? Casa Vieja made it very clear: First, they would re-test us to determine if it was a false positive. If the result was confirmed, we’d be quarantined in our room (room and board at their expense) until we tested negative. While we didn’t want to contract the virus or end up in a hospital, that seemed like a reasonable hedge against disaster. They handled everything professionally and competently.
When our trip was over, Hanna and I were once again the only two on the van to the airport. We wore masks, as did our driver. At the airport, our test results were reviewed upon entry, and then again when we checked in on United. This time the flight was only about a third full, so we could space out even better. Both of us slept for a portion of the time in the air, masks over our faces, and nine hours after we’d left the lodge (with a brief stop to pick up the unmasked dog from the sitter) we were home, safe and sound.
We feel fortunate to have returned home safely and while there are no guarantees, if given the chance we’d do everything the same way all over again. While we had a day free on the front end of the trip and very much wanted to take a day trip to the historic city of Antigua, we felt that would have been pushing our luck. In many respects, it felt that the people of Guatemala were taking the virus at least as seriously as people here in America. If you’re going to fret the whole time, don’t go, but in hindsight we’re glad that we did not put the trip off. If you have any questions, feel free to email us.
